This canoe is designed for use on calm water - only a fool would use it in whitewater, in the surf, or in any dangerous conditions. Don't be a fool.

This is not a performance canoe, it was designed specifically for ease of building, economical use of building materials, and utility.

Seat placement is unique to the primary paddler - heavier people might want to be more towards the middle while children might want to be more aft.

It's easiest to find a long 2x12 and rip all the timbers from it. Use only clear timbers as any knot will break under stress. Scarfing is perfectly OK, use an 8:1 scarf. You'll need (1) 1x2 for the keel, (4) 1x1s for the stringers, and at least (4) .5x1.5s for the wales - (6) if you want to make inwales. Again: Economy is the key here, get as many stringers and wales as you can from your 2x material. Rip a 1x2 along the width to get your .5x1.5 wales. Rip a 1x2 along the thickness to get your 1x1s. Burnish the corners of the sticks so they aern't too sharp (don't round them off, just burnish them.)

Use good quality, exterior or marine grade, 1/4" plywood for the floorboards - they fit inbetween the frames and are lashed across the tops of the bottom stringers. You only need floorboards where you expect to step or put gear - for example, you can save weight by not putting them under the seats or in the bows.

Seats are 1/4" ply on 1x2s edge that are lashed to the upper stringer. You might want to run a king post down to the keel to help support the weight if you are a big person.

This is a full-scale image of the frames in .GIF format. Take it to a print shop and have them print it out on paper that is at least 24x48 inches. Lay carbon paper over your plywood, lay out the picture of the frames, and trace them out. Cut the line and route the corners.

This is a full scale image of the forms, in case someone wants to make one of these out of plywood.