Plans and Instructions for a 'Duck
with 16" sides, and 8" side airboxes from (4) sheets of plywood.
June 8, 2007
Disclaimer: Writing manuals is very difficult. These
plans may be incomplete or confusing. I have no ability to comprehend
your level of competency and I took my best shot. I urge you to
use these plans more for inspiration rather than gospel. You accept
any and responsibility for whatever comes from the use/inspiration
of these plans.
This slide is pretty self-explanatory: Take (2) sheets
of 4x8 plywood and make (6) 16 inch wide planks out of them. Note:
Don't worry about the kerf (the bit the saw blade turns into sawdust.)
Mark the lines as shown and cut the line.
Again, pretty straight forward. Remember: You are
making planks for the sides that are mirror images of each other:
You want 2 planks with the 'good' side to port (left) and 2 planks
with the good side to starboard (right.) You may want to cut the
bow and stern transoms a little larger than shown and trim off the
excess (next page.)
Since plywood it too narrow to attach at right angles,
we use strips of wood along the edges to give us something to glue-n-screw
to. Chine Logs are the strips that connect planks together, Cleats
are the strips that connect bulkheads (interior walls or framing)
and seats. Puddle Duck Racers are 48 inches wide. For these plans,
the sides of the PDR fit inside the tansoms (flat ends of the boat)
so the cleat/chine has to be trimmed off a bit. The airbox top will
fit over the top edge of the sides - the cleats have to be placed
so when the sides are attached, the outside of the side will still
fit under the airbox top.
The airbox sides fit over the cleats/chine logs on
the bow and stern transoms, and so much be notched. The hull (exterior)
sides are just marked so you'll know where to trim the cleats/chine
logs. The chine log has to follow a curve. To help prevent the chine
log from cracking under stress, I always start at the bow end, then
use screws ever 3 or 4 inches. Once the glue has cured, clamp all
the sides together and plane or sand the edges so they match
The decks fit inbetween the airboxes, flush with the
decks. Laminat the leeboard and rudder pieces and shape to suit
your desires.
An 11' mast is sufficent to get the boom of a 60sqft
Balanced Lug to a comfortable height. I recommend using Mik Storer's
methods of rigging a Balanced Lug
http://www.storerboatplans.com/wp/design/rig/sails/making-balance-lugs-faster-2013-setting-up-sails-spars-and-rigging/
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