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Klickitat Canoe - wood removal In the previous essay, I scrubbed the canoe clean(ish.) Today is wood inspection and removal.
I don't know anything about the company that made Klickitat Canoes, but from the weight of the fiberglass and general 'feel' of it, I'd guess they went out of business some time in the 70s. I imagine this canoe hasn't received much care since the original owner gave her up.
This is the worst section of the rubrail, and even it isn't bad. I think I'll just dry it out and apply a lot of teak oil (the wood looks teak-ish)
Stainless steel screws, lock washers, and nuts. The cup washer may or may not have been stainless - many of them look to be in good shape, this one's just ugly.
That's a big-assed bow eye. It has one at each end, which makes it easy to transport, but damn - that's a big assed bow eye.
One of the transom caps is good enough to use as a template. 'tother 'tain't
One of the transom thwarts is salvageable. The one on the right is spongy (can actually squeeze water out of it.
I might use a thwart as a source of the replacement transom thwart. Maybe.
Every friggin time. Every friggin job there's one friggin bolt that won't come out easily. And odds are, if it was built in the 70s, there'll be a mix of Imperial and Metric nuts. Damn you Ronald Reagan!
By now I was getting a little grumpy at the "quality" of the boat. On one hand, it's held up very nicely for over 30 years. On the other, it looks like cheap, fast construction. These flathead screws are pissing me off, too. Phillips, torx - even Robertson - screws are so much easier to remove.
Aaaaaand, my favorite: the one screw that is a different size from all the others, even though they do the same job. Everybody has a pet peeve, this is (one of) mine. I fear removing the rub rails as I think they will break. I need to get some 220G sanding disks and some teak oil to move on to the next step.
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