Mollyhawks, Week 6
March 16-17, 2012
When we last
saw the Mollyhawks, the bottoms had been 'glassed and they'd
received their second coat of epoxy.
I like that 6"
wide, 12 ounce biaxial tape from Duckworks. It lays down very
nicely. As you can see, we had a few runs - no problem . . .
. . . that's what 40 grit sandpaper is for.
Once Curts and I finished the sanding, we gave the boats a quick
wipe down with a damp rag, . . .
. . . and laid down some of Duckwork's
3.25 ounce fiberglass cloth over the bottom. This stuff is REALLY
nice and I can't recommend it enough. We cut the cloth so it would
end about an inch past the edge of the tape.
We spent the remainder of the evening gluing down the 'glass with
Marinepoxy.Here's where I really fell in love with that 3.5oz
cloth: it took the 'pox very well and laid flat against the hull.
We didn't have to cut darts anywhere - it was very flexible. I can't
sing the praises of Duckwork's
3.25 ounce fiberglass cloth loudly enough.
At the end of Friday's session, Curt and I had the bottom of one
boat covered with fiberglass and the other boat sanded out.
The it was "Across the street to Pig
Feathers" - actually the Twisted
Snout - for a beer and some oysters. I have eaten oysters in
the past and am not really a fan (they usually have the flavor and
consistency of snot) but these grilled and Cajun-spiced babies were
FANTASTIC. Truly the BEST oysters I have ever eaten.
The next morning was a two-stage process. We had a lot of milling
to do and we didn't want to get sawdust stuck to the epoxy. While
Bud and Curt worked on milling the gunnels, Shawn and I got to work
on the interior of one of the boats. We had to figure out how to
make seat supports and such. Because the wood was (mostly) bare,
we were using TiteBond III for the glue. On the other boat, it'll
have the interior coated with epoxy before we get started on the
interior cleating, so we'll use thickened epoxy for the glue there.
It doesn't look like much, but we actually accomplished quite a
bit on the interior. What you can't see is the cleating for the
aft and for'd air tanks.
Meanwhile, Bud and Curt had ripped some 1x2s to make the gunnels
and then cut out the knots - the wood needs to be (fairly) clear
because the gunnels bend to match the curve of the hull, and knots
tend to make weak spots, allowing the gunnel to break. Once the
knots are cut out, the pieces need to be scarfed back together to
make 18' long timbers. We use an 8:1 scarf.
Stack up 3-4 pieces with scrap above and below, then do the rough
cut with a power planer.
Next, smooth that surface with a belt sander. The final step is
to glue and clamp the boards together, and you are done.
Once the milling was out of the way, we could cover the bottom
of the second boat with 'glass and 'pox, then give both boats an
nice coat of epoxy to seal the wood.
That's it for this week. Next week, we do a lot more sanding, coat
the interiors with epoxy, and give the bottoms their coating of
epoxy mixed with graphite.